Day 14 - Congewai Valley to Pokolbin (Anne)

Arriving at Queens’ Wharf Newcastle last Saturday wasn’t enough for us, so here we are back again for another walk, the series’ longest at between 25 and 30kms, depending on which map, sign or itinerary you read. Let’s call it 30 and see if it feels like that at the end of the walk.

We return to one of our day-10 junctions, and walk northbound to Pokolbin. Thanks again Pete for the lift in the car shuffle to the start – a strategic move on Pete’s part, given his car will then be just 7 and a bit kms from the Paxton pub, the designated post-walk rendevouz.

The Paxton pub will be blessed with GNWers twice today – we arrive at 9.50am, having walked those 7 and a bit kms, just in time to eat some morning tea whilst waiting for a 10.00 am opening. Then tea, coffees and hot chocolates in the enclosed “atrium”, with laminated historic newspapers for tablecloths. At one table, some of the group read of past snowfalls in Cessnock. Not such a freakish event, perhaps, given the sleet-like rain and cold wind at Pokolbin this morning before the car shuffle. I don extra clothing and hence retain it (worn or in the pack) for the rest of the day. Warwick will be happy to know that have I left my torch at home today (and last week), and with that weight lost, I carry extra water for the extra distance we’ll be walking.

The first climb is a decent one, but Ian tells me that the elevations chart, given its condensed scale, looks worse than the actual terrain still ahead of us. However after the last half of day 12, and all of day 13 being close to flat, I am feeling this day 14 ascent as if I am new to the GNW, not at the end of it. Body temperature rising and chill winds make the thermostat erratic and hence there are various clothing changes: layers on and off and on again.

Ominous clouds behind us, to the front of us, and/or to either side have us uncertain also, but other than a few drops at Pokolbin, the “rain” forecast has not been realised yet, but we are on the lookout, wet-weather gear stowed in easy reach.

True to its name there is a lovely view from Mt View, overlooking vineyards and Cessnock, for our lunch break. Off in the distance there’s a line of white-roofed cabins at one of the Valley’s resorts, behind which lies our destination. The wind whips up and lunch is over, 10 or so kms to go, give or take 5 or 10, according to Pete.

Then a walk the long way around the perimeter of a fenced paddock, and the rain jackets are out and on, the laden clouds doing some un-ladening, but only in the form of sweeping showers. Jackets off again, a slippery descent on a track topped with marble-like rocks, then the jackets are on again for another brief shower.

Then a lookout which we are told used to be end of the GNW, but not for us, as the sign now reads that we are 4kms short of our goal. Not much fun walking on roads and concrete paths with weary legs and tender feet, but we do it, noting that the descent we’d just done is now blanketed by cloud and looks like it is being rained upon, whereas we are now jacketless and warm from a burst of sun.

Pete gets into a sprint, so that his role of “leader” comes true for the day, and the series. Then a group photo for the intrepid eight who did every day of this year’s GNW, after which we stride purposefully on to Hunter Valley Gardens for coffees or ice creams. No doubt those that go on to the Paxton pub have other refreshments in mind. Thanks again Pete and Doug and fellow GNWers for the day’s walk which feels every bit of 30kms.

(Anne)


Morning Tea


Overlooking Cessnock


Overlooking Cessnock


Some of the Wildlife


Walking down to the Winery's


The End Of The Walk


The End Of The Walk


Height Chart

Day 13 - Teralba Railway Station - Queens Wharf Newcastle (Melissa)

This morning's journey started on a cold train platform as we waited for the train to Teralba to arrive. Meeting up with Anne and a couple of other walkers we all boarded the train, quickly finding a large group of walkers on board.

On the train mum and I enjoyed a breakfast of croissants, bananas & chocolate milk. The rest of the walkers were waiting as we exited the train at Teralba and got the final leg of the walk underway.

We headed down through Teralba and to the edge of Lake Macquarie where we had to make our way through the construction site of the new bike track they were building there, we then meandered around the lake to Warners Bay where morning tea was held conveniently opposite the shops where walkers could buy their cups of coffee, cakes and anything else that was on offer.

After morning tea we headed off away from the lake following nature corridors through the outlying suburbs of Newcastle, the GNW was just one path in a maze of well walked tracks through the strips of bush, leading through tunnels under the road and around the golf course where the crack of a club hitting a golf ball was an instantly recognisable sound in the bush.

We passed by an old disused rail line and train platform at Kahibah before crossing over the road and into the Glenrock State Conservation Area where the high well made board walk showed that we were traversing a very popular walking trail. The pleasant trail overlooked a creek from which the sounds of many little frogs could be heard as we continued on the trail passing over a high suspension bridge and then enjoying the view as we overlooked a waterfall. Surprise could be heard amongst the group as the path came to a lookout which overlooked the beach not far away, and our next stop for lunch.

Continuing on the trail it wasn't long before we reached the sparsely populated beach which was perfect on a warm winters day and everyone spread out to enjoy their lunch. After lunch we headed north along the beach with the keen surfers as they tried to catch some waves and the dolphins which were swimming around out at sea to our right, and the remains of disused mining equipment sticking out of the rocky cliffs to our left.

The beach curved around a bend and suddenly we were all back in civilisation and at the Merewether baths. After a regroup here we headed off along the well used coastal paths of Newcastle following the beaches up to Strezlecki Lookout where we got a perfect view as far south as Norah Head and out to sea where all the cargo ships were waiting to pull into Newcastle Harbour, or looking back the other way over the city of Newcastle itself.

Following a half hidden trail we headed to another lookout which was atop some of the old war tunnels which are situated around Newcastle, then onto an obelisk where we were treated to another great vantage point overlooking Newcastle and then down into a busy shopping mall, where a group of dirty walkers didn't really fit in.

The last leg of the journey involved walking up the winding staircase to the top of the tower at Queens Wharf from where many photos were taken, then winding back down to the bottom and the ever important sign which showed the end of The Great North Walk (or beginning, depending on which way you looked at it). A few more photos were taken here before the group all ended up in the nearby brewery for a few drinks.

Mum & I left a bit early to make the train from Newcastle back to Tuggerah and boarded the train with a few other walkers, in the end most of the walkers seem to have the same idea and soon the carriage was full of GNW walkers. The train trip back made a perfect end to the day as Mum and I enjoyed chocolate ice creams while discussing the days walk and anything else of interest with the other walkers.

I suppose now I can say that I've walked all the way from Sydney to Newcastle, even though it wasn't that hard, and it'd be worthwhile doing it again only all in one go next time.

Melissa


Walking around Lake Macquarie


Morning Tea at Warners Bay


Walking through the tunnel under the road


Walking through Glenrock




Looking down at Burwood Beach


Walking along the beach after lunch

The Obelisk at Newcastle


Height Chart

Day 10 - Watagan Creek Rd - Georges Rd (Anne)

A hot mug of tea and breakfast in the car at 6 am is a great start to the day, with the occupants of several vehicles all staying put to delay confronting the cold - plenty of time for that later. Pete’s 4WD temperature gauge informs us that it’s 1 degree as we leave the Morisett rendezvous at precisely 6.31 am. The 4WD convey proceeds to another rendezvous, where overnight campers amongst the group have prepared a fire for all to huddle around whilst half the 4WDs go off into the bush to make the end of the day easy for all. Then another 4WD shuffle to the start of the walk (what a scenic drive that is). Almost four hours after I had left home, the walk begins.

Then down into a paddock, the frosty valley crunching under foot. The grass is encrusted with a white shroud, as are the numerous cow pats which we either weave between or flatten. Now a short meander to cross Watagan Creek - a dry crossing, unlike last year apparently. The first of many stiles to be encountered today, then the next spectacle after the frosty paddock is of a sea of bare gum trunks. The foliage is way up where we are headed, the trunks the only thing in my range of vision for now, lest the ascent overwhelm too early. I warm up very quickly, unzipping the outer layer, but gloves stay on, toes and nose icy. Two strategically-timed jelly snakes provide the required boost, and soon enough the vertical haul is over, then it’s just a short walk to the morning tea stop at Flat Rock Lookout, which is a particularly scenic spot, inducing an audible “wow”.

As we sit and take in the expansive views over the Lower Hunter Valley (with Congewai Valley in the foreground), Pete points out our meandering route for the rest of day, off in the distance, across the pastures, up gullies and over ridges. Five or six kms of undulating terrain follow morning tea, punctuated for me by regularly adjusting baby India’s beanie backwards from her eyes, as she bobs along in Dad’s backpack. Much of her view today has a pink hue. Dad (Don) informs me she’s reached the 9 kg mark, and with the other gear he carries, it makes my 7kg pack seem like nothing, and I must say I’m used to the pack now, and don’t feel thrown back by the weight of it as I haul myself up semi-vertical terrain.

Then down, down, down into the valley that we’d been surveying from on high at morning tea. The descent is much easier than last week’s marble alley, and very pretty - fantastic for walking solo and taking in the views and listening to bird song. An early lunch and aromas abound, with Pete and Sarah making curried-egg sambos, and Lesley and Ian boiling water for piping-hot green curry chicken soup. We grab this lunch spot whilst the going is good, and settle with cows grazing a comfortable distance away, but they move off quickly (in the same direction on the track we are on) when 30 of us get to our feet after lunch. That makes for fresh and pungent splats to skirt around.

Then the road section of a few kms, which is hard on the hips and feet, and we pass the sign-posted residence of B & M Fogg where the Pokolbin Vineyards Walk forks off from the Congewai Valley Trackhead. We’ll be back to that point to start week 14. Reading the sign which states that Sydney is 180kms behind us, and Newcastle just 70kms to the north, cements the sense of achievement I am feeling as this walk is incrementally conquered. It seems few people like the flat road walking, but it lets us walk past a “quintessentially Australian tree”; a gum with an artist’s palette for bark, and it really is a very Australian-bush experience we’re having, with farm houses and tin structures by the roadside on this section.

Next, the 519m ascent to Barraba Trig looms. I see the sign, but not the Trig, perhaps too busy nursing an injury and trying to get up the track, however not too busy to take in the rainforest pocket and large grass trees (thanks Doug for the scenic commentary, and thanks Kerry for lending me an extra walking pole so I could test the theory that two poles are better than one – certainly for me one is better than none).

Then past an old timber getters’ hut – a museum piece with bunk remnants harking to the mid 1900s. A call from the back “are we there yet?” and the repeated “it’s just around the corner” adds humour, as by now the tail end of the group is pretty well exhausted. Down to the cars, and Heather has started another welcome fire, as the group gathers with cold beers (thanks guys), or, for (English) Linda, a hot coffee brewed on Helge’s primus. We don’t seem to lack much in the way of comforts, and even India ends the day with some spontaneous rolling on a ground sheet, to get her very-soon-to-be-walking legs functioning again after a day in the pack. We leave with the orange glow of the setting sun off in the distance for the adventurous 4WD trip back to base. What a great day, thanks Pete and Doug and all.

Anne


A frosty start to the morning


Looking down on Congewai Valley


More giant Grass Trees




Height Chart

Day 9 - Walkers Ridge Rd - Watagan Creek Rd (Helen)

Another clear morning, no fog or cloud. Assembled at Walkers Ridge Rd, cool in the shade of the bush. Four Wheel Drivers (Doug, Ian, Kevin, Peter, Don and Helen) headed off to the days end point. Along the road we came across Alan heading west from his entry point and Karen on her self-drive orientation tour of the Watagan Mountains. Alan joined the 4WD convoy.

The track to Watagan Creek Rd was rutted and steep in some sections as it wound its way down to the bottom of the valley. Doug returned the drivers to the start. Eagerly waiting walkers remarked how cool it had been whilst they waited. On our way by foot at last we headed down into a valley that was lush and moist, birds nest ferns, elkhorns, rock orchids, tree ferns, turpentine and blueberry ash trees were abundant. A creek at the lowest point was seen to be muddied presumably as result of the rain the preceding days. Close to the bank as the track ran closely to the creek before the track started to wind its way up the otherside, Jan noticed a disturbance in the water, “Did you see that fish?”, it surfaced again, to the delight of the front ‘runners’ we sighted a platypus, it surfaced three times in a short time span working its way through the water, before the chatters caught up and the platypus went undercover (or underwater).

After the delights of sighting the platypus, a bite to eat and a cup of tea in the sun the hills of the Pig and Sow Ridge were climbed, it sure is a pig of a hill and I was feeling sow after climbing them!!! The magnificence of the large grove of very tall grass trees (xanthorrhea) were wandered through, alleviating my sow-ness. These specimens must be hundreds of years old as most of them in the grove are tall enough to stand under and ponder the life the trees have experienced (some are approximately 5m tall).

Heading north along the ridgetop towards our elevated (very elevated 200m) and the highest point in the Watagans, Mt Warrawalong [640m, sighted and documented by Captain Cook on Endeavour in 1770], views of the coast including the ships awaiting entry into Newcastle Harbour and the Norah Head Lighthouse (almost due east) were enjoyed.

A breakaway group including baby India’s mum (Bronwyn) took the alternate bush bashing approach from the southern aspect of Mt Warrawalong, whilst the majority of the group meandered along the established service track to the top. It was evident that there was a number of motor bikes being ridden in close proximity and some were encountered on the track. Their noise sure spoils the tranquility of the bush. As the track headed up to Mt Warrawalong youth accelerated whilst the experienced chugged on. It was almost too warm in the sun in spots where one was sheltered from the light cool breeze.

What a relief it was to reach the top, to sit in the sun amongst the stinging nettles, to enjoy lunch and ponder ones personal challenge of climbing to a higher vantage point given the fear of heights. Curiosity killed the cat and away I climbed, gloves, scarf, beanie and legs zipped back on. What a view, 360° including looking to Barrington Tops in the north and Mt Corricudgy [1276m] in the west.

The much easier downhill journey from Mt Warrawalong was greatly appreciated after lunch. Expansive views over the Watagan Creek Valley were enjoyed from the top of the escarpment [some people stand so close to the edge it makes my bladder squeem and squirm] before the steep downward climb to Watagan Creek Road. It was obvious that this section of the track was frequent by motor bikes and a couple passed us in our transit. Limping Linda was tempted to stick her walking pole through the spokes of a passing bike in an attempt to hitch a ride to the bottom, personally I think having one’s feet on the ground would be less painful than hanging onto the back of one of those bikes. Slowly and steadily we safely wound our way to the bottom where all the group members were awaiting. Kevin’s 4WD was found to have a very flat tyre. From what we gathered Kevin didn’t even have to get his hands dirty with a number of the other guys pitching in to fit the spare. Of all places advertising material (Variety Club 4WD rally) brochures had been placed on the vehicles windscreens in our absence.

Rather than opt for the rough ride back up through the forest rd I head with a car load west along the road to Laguna. The road lead through a shut gate and along the way we sighted 2 wombats, wallabies and kangaroos grazing at different locations. It was surprising the number of homes we passed and also the european make cars. Joining the main road, we turned left for a fast and scenic trip back to the Letter A, where we encountered further wild species. Two yokels (one each of the male and female species) resplendid in their Uggs and sucking on long necks, standing by their means of transport the trusty Holden Ute circa 1980 greeted our arrival. We were advised that a concert was being held in the forest that night and they wondered if we might be attending or visiting the same sex [female] community that was off the forest road. Surprisingly we must have waited 15 minutes before other members of our group started to emerge from the forest in their vehicles. To top off the day some walkers stopped in to the Kulnura Service Station for a cuppa and light refreshment. It turns out that a young Vietnamese couple run the busines, they are open 6.30am-6.30pm 7 days a week, they make most of the food selection they offer and serve a descent cup of expresso coffee or hot chocolate in china or glass (for eat-in). A number of indoor and outdoor tables are available with clean toilets provided.

Helen


Wollombi Brook (Where the platypus was spotted)


Morning Tea


The giant grass trees


More giant Grass Trees


Height Chart

Day 8 - Greta Rd Bumble Hill - Walkers Ridge Rd (Helen)

Clear, sunny morning, beautiful for walking and scenic driving. Some(most) walkers assembled at the ‘end of the day’ location (Walkers Ridge Rd), others like myself decided to orientate a fellow walker (Limping Linda) to a number of roads and later date meeting spots (Mt Fauk Rd, Old Forest HQ, The Pines, Walkers Ridge Rd and Letter A) and drive indirectly to the start of the days walk at Bumble Hill (ie a handicap start to the rest of the group).

The entry point of this section of the track lead us down a power line easement to a section of a historical track winding its way down to the valley floor (or more importantly our morning tea stop at the Yarramalong General Store) below a steep standstone escarpment. This track was apparently constructed in the mid 19th Century and used for the carting of cedar to the Hawkesbury River for shipping to Sydney.

Part way down the track we looked back to the top of the escarpment and noticed a home positioned very close to the edge, what a view to they would have but what a worry for littlies or biggies who had consumed a few drinks or sleep walked. We anticipated that we would probably catch up with the group at the Store (probably just as the five minute wind-up was being provided by our veteran GNW leader Peter). We the scenic routers came across Dougie and the tail enders (including a notable Heather whom is usually up front setting the pace in her running shoes). Thankfully for us we would have the full allotted morning tea break to enjoy our frothy coffee, hot chocolate and taste bud tantilising treats at the very civilised morning tea spot.

Again there were approximately 30 walkers in the days group. We headed off in clear, sunshine along the country road, thankfully the traffic was pretty scarce, the cows were plentiful, mooing and grazing, and the black cockatoos flew overhead squawking in giving notice of our presence. Ursula actually caught up with a friend as she was preparing to reverse out of her driveway. Verandahs and sun bathing spots at people’s homes were envied as we passed by. At the point (at last) where the track finally left the road for the bush our group reassembled half expecting the property owner from the adjoining property to appear and provide us with a serve which it is understood the previous years group had been privy too. The track lead through moist shaded damp vegetation (turpentine trees, rock orchids, elk horns, bird nest ferns lined the way) before the winding path lead us to the higher dry reaches of the forest. Adjacent to the intersection of the track and a forest road was our anticipated lunch pozzie, complete with rays of sun and seating for the weary walkers legs. Some sat in the shade on the seats whilst others spread themselves out on the ground in the dappled sunlight.

After lunch a relatively easy meander along the forest road lead us back to the vehicles on Walkers Ridge Rd. Eskies were retrieved, twist tops were undone as the dust and sweat of the day was eagerly washed away by some. Start-up drivers were transferred back to their vehicles as the group dispersed to enjoy the sunny Saturday afternoon. Peter and his girls were heading back to The Basin for another night under the stars.

Helen


Looking down to Yarramalong Valley from Bumble Hill


Looking up at the cliff on the track down from Bumble Hill


Morning Tea at Yarramalong store


Cows


Alpacas


Down in Yarramalong Valley


Yarramalong Valley


Cedar Brush Creek Trackhead


The break after the road and before the hill


Lunch


Neil with his leech injury


The end of the walk


Height Chart