The Great North Walk 2006: Day 4 - Berowra Waters to Brooklyn (Karen)

As a first time 'Great North Walker', I have been absolutely amazed at what I have discovered literally on my doorstep. I haved lived in Sydney pretty much my entire life but have never really ventured into or explored the local National Parks. It is like entering a parallel world in which you become totally immersed, with the occasional reminder of a glimpse of an office block, house or road through the towering eucalypts or traffic noise filtering into your consciousness as to giving away your true location. It is really satisfying and heartening to see that such incredible spaces and special tracts of land exist in the middle of a city of this magnitude.

This walk is the first of this length that I have attempted and have taken it on as a bit of a personal challenge, after the first day I was very stiff with aching muscles shouting objection to so much use after being idle for so long - but I had seen so much and was well and truly hooked - I wanted more. There is also a degree of satisfaction in knowing what you have achieved in order to feel this way - 16kms is a long way in my book !

So I have been looking forward to my weekly visits to the 'other world', each one revealing something different, the perfect antidote to a hectic week at the office, the traffic and noise that form part of the workday routine. I find my weekly walk a tonic for both mind and body, an escape.

Last weeks walk took us from the tranquil banks of Berowra Waters to Brooklyn on the mighty Hawkesbury. It was rumoured to be one of the toughest sections of the walk and looking at the track notes and graphs beforehand this looked pretty accurate. We met at Brooklyn ( another little gem of a place that I hadn't visited before ) and thankfully there was no fog today so it was an easy drive, a car shuffle back to the ferry and we were on our way. I have noticed that my fitness levels have increased over the last few weeks and this was to be tested very early in the day as after a brief amble along the waters edge with soaring sandstone cliffs on our right we all took a deep breath and headed up, what would be the first of many climbs for the day. What a warm up ! I reached the top and whipped off the thermals, took a big slug of water and took in the view - a beautiful maritime scene with boats moored silently on the still waters of the Berowra Creek, so peaceful and quiet - completely at odds with the hammering of my heart and laboured breathing ! Oh yeah - I am alive !

The freshly whippersnipped track then turned back and followed a ridge top for a while before starting to descend. A light shower cooled us off as we started to climb again, squeezing between gaps in the rocky outcrops and scrambilng up ledges and steps. The rain enhanced all the colours of the bush as well as the smells, it felt fresh.

We crossed the railway line at Cowan, now an unmanned station, and while we were regrouping a freighter grinded and a country train shot past then we crossed the F3 Freeway on the Jerusalem Bay Track bridge. I have passed under this bridge so many times while heading up or down the coast so I was actually quite excited to walk over it - a couple of toot salutes from drivers below, a few waves from the walkers above and we move on and up to a lookout point looking down the Hawkesbury to Broken Bay and the sea. Such an incredible feeling of space as you look down over bush and water with nothing above you but sky. We then headed down towards our designated lunch spot after a quick stop to check out some aboriginal rock carvings that were slowly being reclaimed by time.

We followed the water towards Jerusalem Bay and upon approach we could see a group of boats which turned out to be a salvage operation for a vessel who's bow was the only part visible. We ate lunch in raincoats while watching the progress and by the time we left the boats rails were above the waterline and the water was being pumped out. After lunch we were again faced with another steep climb - the pack may be lighter but the body definitely felt heavier ! We follow the track as it meanders through natures exquiste palette of blackened textured tree trunks, dry, mossy creeks and waterfalls, fillagree fern fronds, irridescent green grass tree blades, rich earthy browns, and ancient weathered sandstone formations. With a short detour to check out the 'Crater'.

After meeting up with a firetrail we again are presented with magical vistas over the water, boats painting white, creamy wakes and the afternoon sun sparkling and dancing on the mighty Hawkesbury. The three bridges featuring - the F3, Pacific Highway ( and again I am taken aback as to how much noise the cars on these roads generate ) and the railway bridge which is pointing to our destination - Brooklyn. With the end in view we attempt to pick up the pace, stopping briefly at the Brooklyn Dam
and then through to our final destination - that haven to all weary travellers - the Pub, where we all enjoyed a well earned bevie, a sit down and a chat. What a day, I am tired but happy and looking forward to getting home and soaking my aching muscles in a long, hot bath.

Karen