The Great North Walk 2006: Day 14 - Congewai Valley to Pokolbin (Anne)

Arriving at Queens’ Wharf Newcastle last Saturday wasn’t enough for us, so here we are back again for another walk, the series’ longest at between 25 and 30kms, depending on which map, sign or itinerary you read. Let’s call it 30 and see if it feels like that at the end of the walk.

We return to one of our day-10 junctions, and walk northbound to Pokolbin. Thanks again Pete for the lift in the car shuffle to the start – a strategic move on Pete’s part, given his car will then be just 7 and a bit kms from the Paxton pub, the designated post-walk rendevouz.

The Paxton pub will be blessed with GNWers twice today – we arrive at 9.50am, having walked those 7 and a bit kms, just in time to eat some morning tea whilst waiting for a 10.00 am opening. Then tea, coffees and hot chocolates in the enclosed “atrium”, with laminated historic newspapers for tablecloths. At one table, some of the group read of past snowfalls in Cessnock. Not such a freakish event, perhaps, given the sleet-like rain and cold wind at Pokolbin this morning before the car shuffle. I don extra clothing and hence retain it (worn or in the pack) for the rest of the day. Warwick will be happy to know that have I left my torch at home today (and last week), and with that weight lost, I carry extra water for the extra distance we’ll be walking.

The first climb is a decent one, but Ian tells me that the elevations chart, given its condensed scale, looks worse than the actual terrain still ahead of us. However after the last half of day 12, and all of day 13 being close to flat, I am feeling this day 14 ascent as if I am new to the GNW, not at the end of it. Body temperature rising and chill winds make the thermostat erratic and hence there are various clothing changes: layers on and off and on again.

Ominous clouds behind us, to the front of us, and/or to either side have us uncertain also, but other than a few drops at Pokolbin, the “rain” forecast has not been realised yet, but we are on the lookout, wet-weather gear stowed in easy reach.

True to its name there is a lovely view from Mt View, overlooking vineyards and Cessnock, for our lunch break. Off in the distance there’s a line of white-roofed cabins at one of the Valley’s resorts, behind which lies our destination. The wind whips up and lunch is over, 10 or so kms to go, give or take 5 or 10, according to Pete.

Then a walk the long way around the perimeter of a fenced paddock, and the rain jackets are out and on, the laden clouds doing some un-ladening, but only in the form of sweeping showers. Jackets off again, a slippery descent on a track topped with marble-like rocks, then the jackets are on again for another brief shower.

Then a lookout which we are told used to be end of the GNW, but not for us, as the sign now reads that we are 4kms short of our goal. Not much fun walking on roads and concrete paths with weary legs and tender feet, but we do it, noting that the descent we’d just done is now blanketed by cloud and looks like it is being rained upon, whereas we are now jacketless and warm from a burst of sun.

Pete gets into a sprint, so that his role of “leader” comes true for the day, and the series. Then a group photo for the intrepid eight who did every day of this year’s GNW, after which we stride purposefully on to Hunter Valley Gardens for coffees or ice creams. No doubt those that go on to the Paxton pub have other refreshments in mind. Thanks again Pete and Doug and fellow GNWers for the day’s walk which feels every bit of 30kms.

(Anne)