Day 5 - Brooklyn to Staples Lookout (Kevin)

The real walking started after a very pleasant ferry ride from Brooklyn – coffee and biscuits on board were appreciated as was the lovely early morning scene as we disembarked at Patonga. I felt sorry for the people who were still rubbing sleep from their eyes – they didn’t know what they were missing.

The land at Patonga was issued as a grant to John Hatfield in 1839, then subdivided by a subsequent owner who died in the wreck of the Dunbar in 1857 in which year the Dunbar started her second and last trip to Sydney. On the night of 20 August 1857 the Dunbar encountered a gale and poor visibility and hit the coastline just to the south of The Gap on South Head.

'Patonga' is said to be an indigenous word meaning oysters.

We entered the Brisbane Water National Park with the climb from Patonga beach up to the top of the headland – this concentrated the mind and awakened the legs and lungs. The view at the top was uplifting – across the broadwater of Broken Bay to Barrenjoey and Palm Beach and westward to the reaches of the Hawkesbury. “Blue with green should never been seen” is a fallacy in relation to the Australian bush – the contrast of the green leaves of the eucalypts against the backdrop of the blue water in the sharp morning light was great.

Our first stop was to view some ancient rock carvings – some aboriginal, some from a visiting football club. I guess this was early graffiti – before the days of spray cans!! Rain swept over us as we passed by the Tony Doyle lookout named after a local worthy and Member of Parliament.

Soon the memory was jolted back to February this year when bush fires ranged through this area and onward down to Phegan’s Bay. Whilst the extent of the fires could be seen, the remarkable Australian bush was already well into recovery. We probably all know that fire plays an important role in many Australian ecosystems. Left to its own devices and without the intervention of fire, the Australian bush would be overwhelmed by large trees and the ensuing canopy would materially affect the undergrowth and biodiversity. Fire restricts the growth of trees as it destroys the pinnacle of the tree, the ‘apical meristem’, and promotes regrowth in the lower trunk and limbs of the tree. We saw examples of this growth from epicormic shoots and from lignotubers which are knobbly masses below the surface of the soil and which are rarely damaged by fire. We saw examples of seed covers having been ‘popped open’ by the fire, of seeds being exposed to wind distribution. It will be interesting to note the regrowth on next years walk.

It is documented that aboriginals used fire to manage their environment although this occurred mainly in semi-arid and arid Acacia communities. Areas were burnt for a variety of reasons including hunting of animals, signalling, promoting "green flush" to attract animals, and promoting growth of food plants.

Lunch adjacent to Dillon’s farm gave us good views over Brisbane Water towards Green Point. Again a little rain but spirits were undaunted. We struck a fire trail and the walking became easier as we neared Mt Wondabyne, at around 250 metres the highest point in the Park. Here the effects of the February bush fires gave us a great panoramic view unrestricted as it was by tree foliage. It gave us the opportunity also to look back and see how far we had traveled over the last few weekends and how far we had to go this coming weekend. Both distances were impressive and its always satisfying to me that shanks pony can take me so far and so enjoyably.

The end of the day’s walk is off the main GNW trail and we branched off to Staples Lookout; we retrace our steps next week to pick up the main trail again.

Thirty-one out and thirty-one in – all were present and accounted for. My overview of the day – after last week’s gruelling trek this was a pleasant little sojourn.

Kevin


Overlooking the Hawkesbury


The group


Overlooking the Hawkesbury


Walking through the burnt bush


Cone Stick or Petrophile Pulchella


Burnt bush regenerating


Mt Wondabyne in the distance


Height Chart

Day 4 - Berowra Waters to Brooklyn (Karen)

As a first time 'Great North Walker', I have been absolutely amazed at what I have discovered literally on my doorstep. I haved lived in Sydney pretty much my entire life but have never really ventured into or explored the local National Parks. It is like entering a parallel world in which you become totally immersed, with the occasional reminder of a glimpse of an office block, house or road through the towering eucalypts or traffic noise filtering into your consciousness as to giving away your true location. It is really satisfying and heartening to see that such incredible spaces and special tracts of land exist in the middle of a city of this magnitude.

This walk is the first of this length that I have attempted and have taken it on as a bit of a personal challenge, after the first day I was very stiff with aching muscles shouting objection to so much use after being idle for so long - but I had seen so much and was well and truly hooked - I wanted more. There is also a degree of satisfaction in knowing what you have achieved in order to feel this way - 16kms is a long way in my book !

So I have been looking forward to my weekly visits to the 'other world', each one revealing something different, the perfect antidote to a hectic week at the office, the traffic and noise that form part of the workday routine. I find my weekly walk a tonic for both mind and body, an escape.

Last weeks walk took us from the tranquil banks of Berowra Waters to Brooklyn on the mighty Hawkesbury. It was rumoured to be one of the toughest sections of the walk and looking at the track notes and graphs beforehand this looked pretty accurate. We met at Brooklyn ( another little gem of a place that I hadn't visited before ) and thankfully there was no fog today so it was an easy drive, a car shuffle back to the ferry and we were on our way. I have noticed that my fitness levels have increased over the last few weeks and this was to be tested very early in the day as after a brief amble along the waters edge with soaring sandstone cliffs on our right we all took a deep breath and headed up, what would be the first of many climbs for the day. What a warm up ! I reached the top and whipped off the thermals, took a big slug of water and took in the view - a beautiful maritime scene with boats moored silently on the still waters of the Berowra Creek, so peaceful and quiet - completely at odds with the hammering of my heart and laboured breathing ! Oh yeah - I am alive !

The freshly whippersnipped track then turned back and followed a ridge top for a while before starting to descend. A light shower cooled us off as we started to climb again, squeezing between gaps in the rocky outcrops and scrambilng up ledges and steps. The rain enhanced all the colours of the bush as well as the smells, it felt fresh.

We crossed the railway line at Cowan, now an unmanned station, and while we were regrouping a freighter grinded and a country train shot past then we crossed the F3 Freeway on the Jerusalem Bay Track bridge. I have passed under this bridge so many times while heading up or down the coast so I was actually quite excited to walk over it - a couple of toot salutes from drivers below, a few waves from the walkers above and we move on and up to a lookout point looking down the Hawkesbury to Broken Bay and the sea. Such an incredible feeling of space as you look down over bush and water with nothing above you but sky. We then headed down towards our designated lunch spot after a quick stop to check out some aboriginal rock carvings that were slowly being reclaimed by time.

We followed the water towards Jerusalem Bay and upon approach we could see a group of boats which turned out to be a salvage operation for a vessel who's bow was the only part visible. We ate lunch in raincoats while watching the progress and by the time we left the boats rails were above the waterline and the water was being pumped out. After lunch we were again faced with another steep climb - the pack may be lighter but the body definitely felt heavier ! We follow the track as it meanders through natures exquiste palette of blackened textured tree trunks, dry, mossy creeks and waterfalls, fillagree fern fronds, irridescent green grass tree blades, rich earthy browns, and ancient weathered sandstone formations. With a short detour to check out the 'Crater'.

After meeting up with a firetrail we again are presented with magical vistas over the water, boats painting white, creamy wakes and the afternoon sun sparkling and dancing on the mighty Hawkesbury. The three bridges featuring - the F3, Pacific Highway ( and again I am taken aback as to how much noise the cars on these roads generate ) and the railway bridge which is pointing to our destination - Brooklyn. With the end in view we attempt to pick up the pace, stopping briefly at the Brooklyn Dam
and then through to our final destination - that haven to all weary travellers - the Pub, where we all enjoyed a well earned bevie, a sit down and a chat. What a day, I am tired but happy and looking forward to getting home and soaking my aching muscles in a long, hot bath.

Karen



Looking down to Berowra Waters


Anne with an Angophora


Looking down at Brooklyn




Salvaging a boat at Jerusalem Bay


Peter and Maggie with Brooklyn in the background


Height Chart

Day 3 - Hornsby to Berowra Waters (Ursula)

In order for you to appreciate my thoughts on day 3 of the Great North Walk you will need to know a little bit about day 2 for me as it was my first day . Unfortuantely I wasn't able to participate on day 1 as at that time there wasn't any vacancies. Thanks go to the walk co-ordinator, Anne, for allowing me to join in.

Having not been on many bush walks of this magnitude I though I was up for the challenge so of course like most of you, have enrolled to complete the full course.

In anticipation of my first walk I had packed and re-packed my backpack several times over with the belongings I thought I needed. I must have been so excited I found I could hardly sleep. I woke up every couple of hours as a I had a fear that I would sleep through the alarm. When it was time for the alarm to go off I was already awake, staring at it. I managed to crawl out of bed and get ready. I was able to catch an earlier train, an express from Wyong only I didn't incorporate the reduced travel time. Normally, this would be a benefit to most communters but it is was a hinderance to me as it meant that I had arrived 50 minutes early at Hornsby station. Due to missing the briefing and Day One, I didn't have the pleasure of meeting any of my walking companions prior to this day. Therefore, I found that I was pacing up and down the train station, ready to question any person who had a obvious backpack. My apologies go out to all the backpackers that I mistakenly assumed were bushwalkers. Relief ensued when I finally found one of you.

After introductions and a discussion concerning walk requirements I realised that I didn't have enough water so I purchased another litre just in case and loaded up the back pack a bit more. MY GOD SUCH OBSTACLES and the walk hadn't even started.

Day 2 of the walk was every thing I hoped it would be, challenging, exhausting, beautiful and a very social event. My only complaints, were a sore toe and shoulders. I can live with that.

Now to Day 3.

I gained many valuable tips about appropriate gear so on day three I was armed with a new backpack with hip and sternum straps, so I didn't have to endure any more shoulder pain, a pair of zip off pants so I didn't have to carry shorts and some gaiters, simply to keep out leaches.

On the Friday evening, prior to my walk, I had visitors so I decided that this time I would even have a glass of wine. My visitors left in the early hours of Saturday morning so I had very little sleep. This time when the alarm went off I certainly wasn't ready for it. I fumbled around in the dark trying desperately to turn it off when I managed to knock it onto the floor where it broke apart, but still kept going off. In the end, I decided it was easier to pull the cord out from the socket, when that was over I tripped on the vacuum on the way to turning on the light and dropped a bottle of creme on the bathroom floor. I had the hide to say my husband was noisy in the morning!!!!!!

Today the walk was from Hornsby to Berowra Waters so train travel was not an option this I was kindly given a lift by Linda, Melissa and Anne. There kindness was much appreciated. I found this section of the walk to be more challenging than Day 2, particularly for my feet as I had bandaged my toes, utilising another great tip gained from day 2. Due to this I didn't make allowances for the blisters I would gain on my heels as my shoes were that much tighter. Relief was found when I was provided with blister packs during the walk. For those that don't know these are like padded gel bandaids and are certainly an essential item to carry in each backpack.

I was quite suprised to see so many individuals and groups also on the walk. i was amazed to see two roosters that are apparently a regular sight at that part of the walk and have apparently been there for a number of years.

Morning tea was gained only when you reached the top of a large hill that opened out into a camp ground. After a short break we continued on leading down to Cross Lands. On the way we saw ducks and numerous schools of fish. If only I had more time and a fishing rod!!

Our well earned lunch stops was had a Crosslands which is a larged grassed picnic area where it is a beautiful and tranquil place for families to come and relax, eat, BBQ, canoe, walk and maybe fish.

The end section of the walk was certainly the hardest section, once I found out that we had another 7-8 kilometres to go!!!!

There was a large section of uphill terrain so at the top of one section numerous lollies were consumed by all, to provide an instant energy boost. We made it to the top and the view was well worth all the effort. This in my opinion is the most spectacular view of the scenery so far. the remainder of the walk was somewhat easier, but still hard going as it was all downhill. At the top you could look down and view the boats moored at Berowra Waters and it was pleasing to note that they were getting closer as we were nearing our destination at Berowra Water's ferry. Our guide offered beers to the first ten people to make it down and whether serious or not, it certainly made people to pick up the pace so much so that I tripped but managed to stay up. We all made it safely to the bottom after a slight hiccup in directions and regained the track.

Beers and icecreams and cool drinks were consumed by all.

We are all looking forward to day 4 which promises to be the hardest day of the whole walk. God help my poor toe.

Ursula


The group getting ready to go


The fish in Berowra Creek


Ursula




Descending down to Berowra waters


Something to look out for


Height Chart

Day 3 - Hornsby to Berowra Waters (Lesley & Ian)

Friday was a wet day on the Central Coast and I eagerly kept an eye on the weather bulletins about Saturday's weather. Thankfully the news was good and so I started to salivate about Saturday's walk starting in Hornsby and finishing at Berowra Waters.

My partner Lesley and I slept quite soundly the night before, and rose around 5:10 AM. After showering, dressing, final packing the backpacks and having a little breakfast, we set off for Berowra Waters around 6:30 AM. We arrived around 7:10 AM and met with the other walkers. In all we numbered 33 including the baby India.

We drove to the Rosemead Road access point and met with Helge and a number of school children who were setting out for a weekend's walk. Thankfully Peter lead us off fairly quickly so we could remain ahead of the children.

The day's first leader was Sue who must have had a good breakfast to be setting such a fast pace up the hills. This was just to get to the Fishponds. From the fishponds Sue continued to lead and soon a small cohort of six were moving well ahead of the others until the historic Steele Bridge where we stopped for others to catch up.

The first six had stretched the walkers so by the time the first 25 or so arrived at the bridge, including Peter, some people were itching to get along to Tunks Ridge for a spot of morning tea. Ian waited for Kerrie as she was carrying the snacks, while Lesley and I waited for the arrival of Donald and Bronwyn with their baby India. Bronwyn is my sister and India is their cute and angelic child. After most of the stragglers arrived the remainder of us set off up the steep and long rise to Tunks Ridge. We were pleasantly surprised to find a commodious composting toilet - single seat only, now positioned within the Tunks Ridge reserve. After morning tea in the lovely sunshine we set off for the next part of our walk - to Galston Gorge.

Most of the walk to Galston Gorge is along ridgetop and soon after leaving Tunks Ridge we could discern the traffic on the Galston Gorge Road. We soon were climbing down the steep slopes leading down to Galston Gorge and Berowra Creek. Some of the group stepped across the stepping stones while most others walked over the bridge. At the northern end of the bridge we waited with the two roosters who seem to have made a home in this small area.

Peter made us wait for all the walkers and grouped us closely together so none of us would get lost on the next stage to Crosslands. While we waited for all to arrive, Ian handed out jelly snakes for us all to indulge. This part of the GNW was very pleasant and apart from the odd car body, the bush had few weeds and was beautifully green after the bushfires a couple of year's ago. All in all, this was one of the most pleasant days I have experienced on the GNW, in this my third attempt at the walk.

At one stage, the track goes up a very steep rocky section and several intrepid walkers including Kerrie, Bronwyn, Donald (with India), Doug and Peter took the muddy option hugging the bank of the creek to remain as dry and clean as possible. The remainder of us went up the steep way and then worried about getting down to the track again. Thankfully there is a some help on the other side.

We were soon in Crossland and here we could enjoy lunch and more civilised toilets. Lunch was very pleasant, enjoying the dappled sunshine. After lunch we set off for Berowra Waters. Soon after Crosslands we walked through a wheelchair accessed area then over more uneven ground. At Calna Creek, several of us more experienced GNW walkers were disturbed that the Dept. of Lands had fixed up the bridge. No longer a bridge as Luna Park would have built, but a much safer, blander version.

Neil would have liked a group photo, but Sue again set off at such a pace we at the pointy end of the group chased after her. At the rise from Berowra Creek to Sam's Creek, we regrouped so no one would get lost at this point. Peter and I handed out fruit jellies for us all to have before the assault on the rise out of Sam's Creek. Much of this part of the GNW had been done up with new railings and stairs to make the climb easier. Still, this is a testing part of the day's walk.

Thankfully, the view from the top is well worth the effort, spotting where we had been for most of the afternoon. We then walked along the ridgeline and enjoyed the views of Berowra Creek. Soon we were descending the hill to Berowra Waters, enjoying the views of houses and boats and before too long, the day's walk was over. Most of us arrived by around 4 PM and soon afterwards, we said our goodbyes and made our respective ways home.

Lesley & Ian

Day 2 – DeBurghs Bridge to Hornsby (Neil)

From the view of a first timer:

Today’s walk will take us up through the remainder of the Lane Cove National Park, over the railway bridge at Thornleigh, and down into Berowra Valley Regions Park, the highlight being the Fishponds, a deep water hole with flowing water that had shaped large boulders “sink holes” along the river bed. The day will finish with a tester right at the end of the walk, the old sandstone steps that take you up out of the valley to Hornsby Railway Station .

For those living north of Sydney, Central Coast, Newcastle it was another early but much anticipated start to the weekend. 5.30 am, a whole 30 minutes later than the previous week “what a luxury”. Filled with some confidence that I had survived the previous week, but a little apprehension about the new challenges of the day, today is 17km !, surely there can’t be much native bushland in suburban Sydney between Gordon and Hornsby!

This was real Aussie bush from the start, and before long there was the familiar steep rocky climbs following a clearly defined trail chiseled into the rock, each step there in front of you “somebody had to make these steps! How long would that take? Its long enough just to walk on them!”.

This was obviously familiar bush walking territory for many, over many years ‘an historic track’ yet the environment remained rugged and unspoilt. You could have been walking in remote bushland except for distant traffic noises and the site of some homes that enjoyed the luxury of facing onto a National Park. The morning break was taken at an elevated sports oval in South Turamurra (Thornleigh Oval) with the luxury of a toilet and a sausage sandwich for some.

Here comes another steep climb, followed by the reward of even ground or even a fire trail. Yes there are some new faces that joined the day, old friends from previous treks for some, new friend for others 27 in total today.

A much earned lunch was taken on an elevated rock platform, time to restore spent energy and dry the socks. Time to take in the surroundings, while a smaller group took a short tour to what was formerly known as Blackfellows Head.

The day finished with a strong sense of accomplishment and reward for the efforts of the day “I have made day 2!”. There are moments in the day when those climbs just keep coming, when you may not have felt so enthusiastic, those zones of discomfort, but its all in perspective now. The contour map handed to us during the day indicates that there are much greater challenges ahead.

Neil


Fishponds


Fishponds






Height Chart